Mark Kleiman bemoans the death of the REAL bagel, but lucky for him I’m around. The poor shmoe of course lives in LA, which every good Ashkenazi knows is NO place to comment reasonably about the state of Jewish cuisine….

In New York, of course, there are few places you can get a decent bagel, and edible lox is even harder to find. One-stop shopping does not exist, and the closest you can get to it is 80th and Broadway, where you can get hot H&H on the south corner and…